Germany’s far-right movement is gaining traction in certain regions, prompting researchers to highlight an increase in public displays of extremist sentiments without overt political symbols. At gatherings for the Alternative for Germany (AfD), coded messages are being subtly conveyed through everyday items like sneakers and T-shirts.
Brands such as New Balance and Lonsdale are now being used as covert signals for nationalist and Nazi ideologies, a concerning trend in a country where the exhibition of Nazi symbols is legally restricted. This shift towards veiled messaging has been observed by experts like Gideon Botsch from Potsdam University, emphasizing the use of ambiguous imagery by individuals with extreme right-wing affiliations.
For instance, the large “N” on New Balance sneakers is interpreted as representing “nationalist,” while “NB” symbolizes “Nationale Bewegung” or “national movement.” Similarly, Lonsdale’s logo, when worn in a specific manner, forms “NSDA,” an abbreviation associated with Germany’s National Socialist Party.
This subtle approach allows individuals to communicate their extremist views discreetly, circumventing legal boundaries set by Germany’s regulations on Nazi symbolism. The deliberate ambiguity of these signals caters to a niche audience that can decipher their hidden meanings, ensuring compliance with the law while promoting divisive ideologies.
As the political landscape evolves, the AfD has transitioned from a fringe party to a significant player in Saxony-Anhalt’s impending state election. If successful, the AfD could secure an unprecedented absolute majority in a German state since World War II, marking a significant shift towards far-right extremism in mainstream politics.
The blurring lines between hardcore neo-Nazis and populist right-wing supporters have created a “grey zone,” with neo-Nazi groups endorsing the AfD as a means to further their extremist agenda. This convergence of ideologies is reflected in the attire worn by attendees at AfD events, where seemingly ordinary clothing choices like New Balance and Lonsdale carry deeper, divisive connotations.
Although not every individual sporting these brands is a neo-Nazi, the resurgence of such apparel within far-right circles underscores a concerning trend of subtle signaling and normalization of extremist views. Researchers note that the shift lies not in the clothing itself but in the growing boldness of individuals openly displaying these covert messages, aligning with the escalating influence of Germany’s far-right movement.
While brands like New Balance have distanced themselves from far-right associations, Lonsdale continues to combat its appropriation by extremists through anti-racism initiatives. However, the resurgence of Lonsdale among far-right groups signifies an ongoing challenge for the company, prompting strict measures to prevent its misuse in extremist contexts.
In contrast, brands like Thor Steinar, recognized for their Nordic and runic motifs, offer clearer indicators of far-right affiliations. The brand’s history of controversial symbolism, including runic imagery reminiscent of banned SS symbols, has faced legal scrutiny in the past, highlighting the complex interplay between fashion, symbolism, and extremist ideologies in contemporary Germany.