Breeze-embracing palm trees, fairytale architecture drenched in pastel, and soft golden sand – this tiny village feels like a slither of the Italian Riviera has somehow ended up in the UK. But it’s not the soaring Dolomites peaking out from the horizon: it’s Eryri National Park (Snowdonia) in Wales.
Situated on the estuary of the River Dwyryd, just two miles from the tourist resort of Porthmadog, lies Portmeirion. This ethereal village is no hidden gem, attracting more than 200,000 tourists every year, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth visiting.
Nestled between sub-tropical greenery and clear waters, Portmeirion was designed and built by Welsh architect Clough Williams-Ellis from 1925 to 1973. The picturesque village was created to ‘inspire others’, and attempted to show that a ‘naturally beautiful’ location could be developed without spoiling it.
Consisting of two luxury hotels, a cluster of self-catering cottages, cafes, a spa, an art deco restaurant, and three trinket-filled souvenir shops – Portmeirion feels like you’ve entered a completely different world. It almost feels like the real-life city of Duloc from Shrek or an Italian’s answer to Disneyland.
On entry, you’ll be given a map that adds to the theme park atmosphere. This details all the stops worth visiting, including the Bridge House, where you can hear Clough give an introduction to the village, as well as the Battery Square, Campanile Bell Tower, Central Piazza, and Salutation Square.
Even if you’re not a huge history buff or fan of The Prisoners – an acclaimed TV show filmed in the village – you can easily spend the day admiring the unusual architecture, people-watching in the shade with a coffee, or rolling up your jeans to have a paddle in the outdoor pool. There are also several walking routes offering stunning views of the national park.
After browsing the quaint shops and taking some pretty snaps of domed buildings and sea-view restaurants, I headed into the lush greenery to escape the tourists – which really started filling the village by around 11am. Here, you’ll find 70 acres of woodland, a Chinese-style lake, Gazebo, and a Peace Statue.
Naturally, Portmeirion’s limited accommodation doesn’t come cheap – with prices in the village exceeding £300 on certain dates. You can visit as a day-tripper – which is exactly what I did.
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However, entry into the tranquil village isn’t cheap, with adult tickets costing a staggering £20. Students and those over the age of 60 can get a slightly discounted ticket for £17.50, while children aged between 5-15 are charged £13. Entry is free for children under the age of five. There are also family tickets which can work out slightly cheaper, including two adults and one child for £45 (instead of £53).
While it’s understandable that charging entry can help promote the conservation of the buildings, lands, plants and wildlife in the area – one of the ‘aims and objectives’ of Portmeirion Ltd – £20 felt a little steep, and meant that I’d probably not return. For large families on a budget, this tiny village will probably feel like too much of an expense – especially considering you can get tickets for Disneyland for as little as £80.
If you’re not deterred by the price, Portmeirion is just over 200 miles from London – meaning you’ll have to endure a five-and-a-half-hour car ride. You can get the train to Minffordd, which is just a four-minute taxi ride from Portmeirion. However, this will include several stopovers, takes around six-seven hours – and can cost more than £75 for a one-way fare.
As I was already holidaying in the nearby Porthmadog, travelling to Portmeirion wasn’t an issue. I also managed to stay in a caravan at the Haven Greenacres Holiday Park for just £300 for four nights (a quarter of the price compared to just one night at Portmeirion).
*Prices based on Trainline listings at the time of writing.
Is Portmeirion worth the hype? Have your say in the comments section below.
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